Stage 14 Day 5 (74)
Aragunnu Campground to Wapengo Rocks | 4 km (1583 km so far) 2 hrs

It was just a quickie this morning to finish off Stage 14 at Wapengo Lake. Started at Aragunnu Beach and headed north to fantastic Mimosa Rocks for a delicious sunrise from the southern side. Back to the two parts of Aragunnu - what a superb beach and an idyllic campground.

The area between Aragunnu and Picnic Beach is untracked, with the GreatSouthCoast FB page describing it as probably the most difficult of the entire southern walk. Not being a dab hand at gps bushbashing and with a bit of a time limit, I cheated and got a lift southwards to Picnic Beach to avoid the trackless area in between (it's 11km by road if you want to avoid the trackless bit). There is an update on the GreatSouthCoast FB page about a way through if you’re a total purist and I do hope to attempt it sometime soon.

Picnic Beach Campground is technically closed for repairs atm but I sneaked through for a quick explore - it's another superb campground and outstanding beach broken up by volcanic ledges. A glorious location that should be open again soon.

From Picnic Beach it was a short hop to Wapengo Rocks and it's array of oyster farms on the northern side of the lake. Looked longingly across the water to where my next stage will begin.

Have loved every minute of this (and every other!) stage and there's many, many places that I will be returning to - especially the two little trackless bits I had to miss. It's such a majestic part of the coast for a surf, a swim, a paddle or (of course) a good long coastal walk.

Stage 15 in a few weeks time. Thanks for following along on my little adventure. Hope you all get out and about to some magical places this weekend...

Stage 14 Day 4 (73)
Cuttagee to Bunga Head and Hidden Valley | 16 km (1579 km so far) 7 hrs

Started out today in the chilly dawn at Cuttagee, followed by Mill Beach and Baragga Point. Then it was over to postcard perfect Barraga Bay Beach as the sun fired up for another shift. A rough track up the hill and then a nicely made trail down the other side to gob-smacking Armands Beach.

Clothing optional beaches always seem to be sensationally located and this one is ideal. A bit too cold for the naturists this morning so had it all to myself. It was another little place for me to just drink deep of nature’s draft and explore a way southwards to Murrah Head.

Found a nice track about near the southern end which led on to an all too easy fire trail. Had been a bit nervous about this bit but it all turned out much easier than expected.

The trail came up to an amazing house - I took the southward side around the fence of the property and its quaint little cabin

I then followed the fire trail until an intersection and turned coastward - too easy.

And then right near the crossing to Murrah Beach is one of the most beautiful 'get away from it all' places I've ever seen. A delightfully minimalist wood and glass piece of architectural perfection - comfortably unobtrusive. There'd been a few intriguing sculptures along the trail and I guess the owners had placed them as there were many more in the clearing. I'm a little jealous - getting here might not be too easy but once here you would never want to leave... wow!

I wandered out to the headland and found a few more similar structures - no-one around so am left with a touch of mystery as to the origin and purpose of this magical place.

But I next had to deal with the crossing of the Murrah Creek/Lagoon. Narrower than I had been led to believe but with a swiftish current adding to the chill factor.

I bundled up my gear and loaded it on to my little packraft - the crossing was only maybe 20m of wading and 20m of swimming but care was required. Half the swim being pushed out to sea by the outflowing current then being pushed shoreward by the breaking swell. Would be a lot of fun in warmer weather but I was very glad to touchdown on the sand spit on the south side.

A lovely saunter along Murrah Beach with the warm sun on my back, then around to North Bunga (from the Indigenous word for 'tail') and across delightful Goalen Head.

So many kangaroos on the grassy headland with accompanying saturation bombing of kangapoo. There is no clear track across but it is easy enough to pick your way over, with the kangaroos keeping the grass between the banksias nicely mown.

Loved Little Bunga Beach which has to be another best beach contender and then it was across to South Bunga. Next, the Hidden Valley trail and the fine fisherperson's (!) hut again gorgeously located.

The Hidden Valley South trail ends at a newly constructed concrete bridge that currently leads nowhere. I spent an hour or more bushbashing up to the first ridge of Bunga Head but it was tough going and there didn't seem to be any logical way down to Aragunnu from where I was so will check out Mimosa Rocks tomorrow.

Returned to South Bunga as the sun was setting and the mobs of kangaroos were enjoying their grassy sundowners. Totally worn out and completely at peace. What a magical part of the coast!

If you don't mind the swim across the Murah I'd say this is another jewel in the crown of the NSW coast. Perhaps I was extra thrilled because of the uncertainty of the route and it turning out, in the main, much easier than expected.

NSW might not be able to beat Qld in the Origin clinchers, but glory be, we have an unbeatable coastline perfectly set up for a chart-topping coastal pilgrimage. An absolutely premium experience - who could ask for more?

As the old ad used to say about the NT 'you'll never never know if you never never go...'