North Tura to Merimbula
12 km (1635 km) 6 hr
It is strange what a contempt folk have for the joys that are offered them freely. ~Georges Duhamel
So many freely-offered joys on a shortish but stupendous walk today. Started out from outstanding North Tura Beach - dramatic clay cliffs a result of erosion caused by the many giant swells we've had this winter.
So much recent work in this area to develop excellent walking tracks - anywhere you need to walk, there's a perfect track (except for the rock shelf from Short Point to Middle Beach ).
Coming up from the impressive staircase at the southern end of North Tura there is a great track out to the headland - but give yourself plenty of time to explore all the many sidetracks through the Melaleucas - each one rewarding you with another fascinating aspect of this amazing headland. The side tracks between Dolphin Cove Headland and Tura Headland (in particular the route out to the rockshelf slab a little to the north of TH) are geological delights with their rainbow cake contrasting layers
And then Tura Headland, first up is incredible Reggies Lookout and a well-made track outwards to the crown jewel - the Tura Rockpool at the tip of the headland - indescribably perfect - 20m above the ocean - I guess a mix of rain and spray filled - quite incredible.
All the side tracks, a bit of bush bashing, and a period of coastally contemplation at Tura Rockpool somehow turned this 4 km walk up from North Tura into a 3 hour sojourn - and I still didn't want to leave this oceanside Lothlorien. Perfection!
There is a handy trail on the south side of the Tura Headland carpark that brings you down to Tura Beach - it heads inland a little way to a cute bridge across the steep gully - nice.
Next, the stroll along Tura Beach towards Short Point Beach was a pleasant 4 km sandy saunter rewarded with plenty of whale action at the tip of Short Point. Great rockshelf around from there to Middle Beach but a final fissure blocks the way, unless you want a vertical 10m slide. I followed a sketchy track up the cliff that took me to the caravan park on top of the point. From there it was a bit of road walking then the track out to Long Point and its majestic views south to Green Cape.
Finally, it was down to Merimbula Wharf and into Merimbula town via Bar Beach and the quirky little bayside track. Having completed the Wharf to Wharf I ended the day catching up with an ex-Brunei mate who's lucky enough to live nearby. It's yet another great aspect of coastal questing - the chance to catch up with some great folk from days gone by.
It was a shorter and hence more relaxing day today - I've found these are often the most rewarding, allowing plenty of time to explore the byways and have time to just sit in the warm winter sun and drink in all the atmosphere of these magnificent places and extraordinary views. Lots of whales offshore, and loads of seals doing their sealie things. Wonderful!
And, if the truth be told, as I near the end of the formal part of the walk (i.e. Eden) I am a little loath for this Dreamtime to Eden camino to end. Only a few days walking from here to Eden, so I guess a smidgen of an almost melancholic feeling is creeping in. When one of the most significant chapters of one's life starts drawing to a close a kind of pre-nostalgia kicks in. Everything seems that touch more special, the light is brighter, each step is more reflective... No worries - this incredible coast ain't goin nowhere anytime soon, and I'll enjoy reliving the experience and revisiting so many treasured places in the months and years ahead.
I've started on a book about my 'quest' - tragically the book inevitably has to break all the rules of fine literary construction - no real drama or conflict or overcoming of adversity - I started this walk out a happy bloke and I'll end up an even happier one - just 80 days of intense joy, excitement and beauty in the glory that is our coast.
Enough philosophising... the final few days into Eden still to come and an incredible denouement south of Eden still awaits with the Light to Light and the Nadgee walks - so adventures never really come to an end, as a wise hobbit once realised.
Anyway, that's it for a short, but magnificent, 3 day Stage 15. Hope you get into some freely offered joys and an overdose of satisfaction this weekend - and thanks as always for following along on my coastal camino...