Wapengo to Tathra
22 km (1605 km) 8 hr
Pleasure is spread through the earth
In stray gifts to be claimed by whoever shall find.
~William Wordsworth
Started today on the penultimate stage of my Dreamtime to Eden Coastal Camino. Couldn't have a better place to kick off than Myer House on Bithry Inlet at the mouth of Wapengo Lagoon. Ideal location with a fascinating set of structures designed by the architect Roy Grounds, built by locals and kindly financed by the Myer family - much worse ways to spend your fortune. Fully open to walkers (or you can drive to nearby Bithry Inlet picnic area). Check it out on Wikipedia for more info. Another south coast gem. Doubleplusbig WOW!
Followed the trail around to Middle Beach via Stinking Bay (note so stinky today). What a cracking bushwalk - only 2 km but an outstanding route on the small ridge behind Penders Beach - up hill and down dale, across little bridges with ocean views the whole way a pearler -11/10.
Thundering swells made the rockshelves around Penders dangerously tricky - glad that there was this brilliant alternative path to follow.
From delightful Middle Beach it was a sand stroll around to Gillards Beach (or so I thought...) quite a few sand and rock bits that at a medium tide but with a big swell required a bit of 'wait for it, wait for it, wait fooooor it.... go, go, go, go now. Once again around the ragged rocks the ragged rascal ran. Love it!
I then scrambled up to Tommys Bay Walk from the rock ledge and had a great walk through the tree tunnels of love to Gillards Beach and its superb camping area right on the beach. Like everywhere, Gillards was heaving today, so it was definitely a 'don't turn your back on the ocean' walk southwards along the sand.
There's a small promontory halfway along Gillards that I was led to believe only required a bit of skill and daring to circumvent oceanside. Had a squizz - no way unless you fancy being turned into shark burley.
No worries- found a trail around from Gillards about 500m up from the campground - no signage except for a small 'no vehicles' sign at the trailhead. Just like life a way always/usually/sometimes appears just when you need it!
A fair bit of fallen timber along this trail but you can 'clear it in your stride' and it was easy enough to follow if you were not a complete novice...
The trail joins up with Cowdroys Road about 500m inland from the northern entrance to the beach - it would be a bit trickier to find if you were coming from the south - look to your right just after the swampy culvert opposite Duckhole Bay.
Cowdroys was also a bit sketchy due to the swell. The southern half of the beach is backed by high rocky cliffs and the waves were crashing up with force. Just when I was thinking there was no possible way up and over the cliffs, some magic elven rope appeared (100m from the southern edge in a small rocky indentation) once again just like life... when darkest seems the night and all that...
When I got to Nelson Lagoon I did see that there was a much easier way almost at the headland if you were lucky to have calm seas and a lowish tide
Anyway, now it was Nelson Lagoon and time for a swim acros - brrr - effing cold! Putting the fresh back in refreshing!
Broke out the ruckraft and once across the mouth of the lagoon pretty Nelson Beach awaited, before heading out to sensational Wajurda Point and its magnificent lookout.
A short track from there took me to pretty as a picture Moon Bay - even more beachly perfection before Fords Head, Paspalum Point and the mouth of the Bega River.
A moment of decision - to swim or not to swim? Decided that a few kms was better than the icy water and headed around the bay to the bridge at Mogareeka. Lots of abandoned decaying buildings on Fords Head - remants of an old dairy that once had the privilege of gracing this wonderful place.
Once across the Bega it was a short stroll along Tathra Beach (semi washed away in parts) to gorgeous Tathra where I'm staying tonight.
Just another incredible day in this little pocket of perfection on the far South Coast of NSW. Glorious!
Tomorrow will be the Kangarutha Coastal Track from Tathra to North Tura Beach. Can't wait!