Wattamolla to Garie (and return)
17 km (1165 km) | 6 hr
Close to the sun in lonely lands,
Ring'd with the azure world, he stands. ~Tennyson
Today was the 50th of my Dreamtime to Eden coastal camino, notching up 1165km of glorious sun, sea and sand sanctified sauntering so far.
Celebrated with the middle section of the (Republic) National Park Coast Track, which was a perfect way to mark the half century. It's 7.5 kms on the official track each way, but a true coastal pilgrim must add on detours to all of the magical cliff lookouts and the track inland to the sacred secret swimming spot.
Started at wonderful Wattamolla, just perfect in the dawn light, anticipating the first rays of the sun to emerge from the Pacific.
Always worth getting out to Providential Point Lookout for the sunrise if you can – although you might have to walk the 3 kms from the Wattamolla gate (or bring a bike like I did today) if you plan on hitting the cliffs before the official gate opening at 7am.
From Providential Point the track snakes around the magnificent bleached sandstone edifices for a few kms towards Curracurrang Gully Lookout. Just before the crossing of Curracurrang Gully and Creek, a small track inland takes you to the wonderful Curracurrang Falls and its beautiful wild swimming spot. Early birds and weekday wanderers can almost always have this sacred space to themselves - baptism for nature-believers - just sublime!
Returning to the main Coast Track I then continued along the cliffside ‘alternative route’ and made a short detour out to the crown of Eagle Rock before crossing Curracurrong Creek (not to be confused with Curracurrang - the linguist in me has often pondered the significance of that little indigenous vowel inflection - would love to know if any reader has an inkling).
Next was the gorgeous Curracurrong Waterfall – one of the very few in Australia that flows directly into the ocean. A strong wind today made for a reverse waterfall with the water flowing skywards - nature just doing its thing, minding little, or not at all, about its audience of one!
Sadly, the Garie precinct remains officially closed right now (as is the road access to Garie Beach). There was a rockfall near Little Garie a few years ago which is why there is an ‘alert’ on the NP website that the through coast walk is not currently possible (even though the route itself is still fine). No worries - it gives me the opportunity to do the final section of the NP walk tomorrow with my lovely wife, Jhel Caspillo Keaney, and the possibility of sunrise over the superb Figure 8 rock pools.
So, a quick beachfall and an early lunch stop at Garie Head, and the breeze at my back to speed the return journey. While I've often walked the Coast Track, I generally do it going southwards so it was fascinating to enjoy how different it is sauntering 'in reverse'.
Ended the day with a swim at Wattamolla Beach and then in Coote Creek underneath Wattamolla Falls. Perfect end to a perfect day. (Well, the bike ride uphill back to the gate in the early arvo heat was perhaps a tiny 'wabi-sabi' imperfection ).
So, if you agree with D. H. Lawrence that 'the human soul needs actual beauty even more than bread' get yourself to this section of the National Park – like so many parts of the NSW coast, 100% soul nourishment guaranteed!