Manning Point to Forster

27 km (748 km) | 9 hr

The mouth of the Manning presents a few challenges for the coast walker without a support crew. Fortunately, I had an obliging driver so was able to get to Manning Point (amazing dunes and river mouth and then the beach walk to Old Bar. From there it was down to Wallabi Point before the delights of Saltwater National Park. I had been prepared for a wade or a swim across the mouth of Khappinghat Creek, but the entrance was fully closed on the day I was walking through. So, it was just some nice, easy sand strolling on a falling tide along Saltwater Beach with a pod of dolphins accompanying me south while getting in their early body bash.

A yellow-bellied sea snake seemed to be sun-baking near the water so I gave it a wide berth. I know they almost never cause problems for humans, despite being incredibly venomous (or at least that's what I was taught in Sea Scouts 50 years ago) - but no point taking any chances!

Next were Red Head and Diamond Beaches then lovely Shelly Beach and Red Headland and then over to gorgeous Black Head Beach with its sensational rock pool. Caught up with an old schoolmate for brunch and then it was across Razorback Rocks and Pebbly Beach before the long stretch of Nine Mile Beach (actually only 8 miles or a tad under 12kms). The softish estuary sand of Nine Mile makes it a beach to avoid at high tide – but despite being the first beach north of Forster, most of the way was completely deserted.

And so, I arrived at the twin towns of Tuncurry/Forster that straddle the mouth of Wallis Lake and the Coolongolook River, and where this stage of the Dreamtime to Eden walk came to its close.

Stage 5 was a little more complex than any of the previous four stages, primarily due to the crossing of the Manning River. That being said, the whole stage provides some incredible coast walking – in particular the walk through Crowdy Bay National Park from Camden Head to Harrington which is just an incredible series of almost untouched beaches and headlands. I felt so privileged to ‘walk this way’ – accompanied by the wise words of Kylie Tennant and, as always, the stunning scenery and the incredible coastline of NSW. Every day of this stage provided ever more coastal magic and existential bliss.

And, as always on this coastal pilgrimage, I now looked forward to the coming explorations as I ‘wended’ my way ever southward. Stage 6 would involve meandering from Forster to the southern side of Port Stephens. Plenty more ‘walking in the sunshine’!

I trust that your every step will bring you to the here and the now...