Coffs Harbour to Urunga

19 km (378 km) | 6 hr

Sawtell was the jumping off point for the first full day of this stage after a short saunter the previous afternoon along Gallows and Boambee Beaches. Because of repairs to the pedestrian bridge at Boambee, I had to do this as an ‘out and back’ although by the time of publication the Boambee Bridge crossing should be well and truly repaired, and this section could be done as a through walk.

This first day of walking (and kayaking) was a day to remember. Started with a perfect sunrise at Bonville Lookout at Sawtell after a first light stroll along the beach. Then it was down to Bonville Creek to find a way across.

I’ve written before about the momentous ‘first step’ thing – but a cold-water, chest deep crossing in the middle of winter with an icy wind blowing became more of an enterprise than a step. I ‘cased the joint’ a lot more than was required for what was, ultimately, a fairly straightforward crossing near the stairs creekside of the Caravan Park.

After the crossing of Bonville Creek was complete, I re-robed and stepped onto a perfect span of isolated beach. First was a lovely 7 km stretch of sand along Bonville and Bongil Beaches. I arrived at beautiful Bundagen Headland, where Bundageree Creek enters the sea coastside of the 'intentional' community there. The Bundagen cooperative/commune was established in 1981, and it seemed, from my quick walk through, to be a mighty fine group of folk living in a superb location and treating their profound blessings with deep respect.

I next made my way along beautifully isolated North Beach which extends for about 9 km from Bundageree Creek to the northern entrance wall of the Bellinger River. I diverted to the Bongil track for a short distance to see Tuckers Cottage and the Bluff lookout before returning to the sand and a view of Tuckers Rock. Mr Tucker has a cottage, a rock, a nob and an island named after him – not bad for a cedar getter working in the Bellinger valley in the 1860s! He must have been an enterprising chap along with a misguided, imperial belief in ‘terra nullius’.

After a café lunch in the pretty riverside town of Mylestom, I walked to the mouth of the Bellinger and Kalang Rivers, where my ‘legendary’ mate, Garry, had carefully towed a spare kayak across the river mouths to pick me up. It was a slightly challenging paddle across the rivers, with the combination of an incoming tide, a big swell and a very strong wind (as well as the two submerged rock walls that are supposed to 'train' the rivers but can be precarious for a novice kayaker like me). I was happy (and relieved) to get across without any real dramas and it was a wonderful way to complete the day's walk. Anyone planning to do this part of the walk without a mate with a spare kayak might note that it is also possible to catch a bus around the river mouths at 2.30 pm on weekdays from Mylestom to Urunga.

I stayed the night in Urunga at the historic Ocean View Hotel. It was a perfect pub for my needs. It has been tastefully renovated but it remains wonderfully ‘old school’ and must be one of the most reasonably priced accommodation options on the coast at only $50 a room the night I stayed (telephone bookings only). A hot meal, a cold beer and an extremely satisfied coastal pilgrim.