The Spit to Bradleys Head
14 km (1059 km) | 5 hr
Today's walk was a wonderful stroll around the Mosman foreshores, starting in Middle Harbour then crossing magnificent Middle Head (Gubbah Gubbah) to the main harbour and finally around Bradleys Head. I grew up in Mosman, (as did my dad), back in the day when normal people could still afford to live there. So today was a nostalgic walk for me on the penultimate day of my Northern Way. ‘A Kingdom by the Sea’ is the title of a delightful book by Nancy Phelan about childhood there back in my time and I loved a re-read before the walk.
It was a vastly different feel from much of my coast walking with familiar suburbs nearby, but it was a truly fine saunter nonetheless. Starting from The Spit it was a short hop to pretty Chinamans Beach (named after the Chinese market gardens that existed for many years here). Next the perfect twin beaches of Edwards and Balmoral, separated by exquisite Rocky Point Island. These were my local beaches as a boy and they always thrill me with their ‘beachly’ perfection, especially on a beautiful summer morning.
From Balmoral there's a bit of a climb up to Middle Head (the stairs begin at the back of Balmoral Oval) - but you simply must detour from the Bondi-Manly route to take in Middle Head in all its majesty. At Middle Head you are in a location that I put near the top of my list of places that take your breath away - not just for Sydney or Australia, but the entire world. Sensational views, interesting Indigenous and non-Indigenous history, arts complexes, fascinating buildings and fortifications, a couple of perfect little harbour beaches, formidable cliffscapes and a magnificent, magnificent sandstone headland that, to top it all off, you usually have completely to yourself.
It has changed a lot since I was a kid when we could roam the aging military ruins at will (they can only be visited on an NP tour now) but a lot of care has been put into maintenance, refurbishment and track development so my childhood foraging and bush-bashing is no longer required.
Perhaps one day, hopefully long hence, there'll be some scattered ashes and a little bronze plaque at the edge of the headland reading 'In memory of GK who loved this place with his heart and soul'! I'd be perfectly and absolutely and completely serene and content to rest forever in this gorgeous, gorgeous place!
But this beautiful urban walk was not over. Next it was down to Cobblers Beach (appropriately clothing optional), and simply perfect for a swim today. Returning from Inner Middle Head I followed the sensational cliffside track to the 1801 fort (built to ward off a possible US invasion - plus ça change) and then the well-built track up to Georges Head Lookout and down to pristine Clifton Gardens - another fine harbourside beach for a swim or a picnic.
And then the final lovely stretch to Bradleys Head, Athol Hall and Athol (Zoo) Wharf. The old wharf next to Bradley’s Head hosted the villain’s lair in Mission Impossible 2 for those who like their movie trivia. This part of the Manly-Bondi route is an easy bushwalk, with nature on one side and iconic views to the city, Bridge and Opera House on the other. Just outstanding!
The walk then ended with a magical Sydney Harbour ferry trip across the shimmering water - a perfect end to a perfect day.