Swansea to Budgewoi
29 km (935 km) | 10 hr
Another magnificent day on our mighty coast. There was astonishing variety and some of the best beaches I've seen so far. Ghosties Beach, with its towering cliffs and impressive ocean cave, was a highlight of the day’s walk and has definitely earned a golden buzzer in the ‘best beach in NSW’ award.
The day turned out to be a wonderfully inspirational section of coastal walking – made even better knowing that it sits in the well-populated area between the urban areas of Newcastle and the Central Coast. Wallara National Park and Munmorah State Conservation Area cover much of this day’s walk. Google Maps was pretty accurate for the trails (providing that you zoom right in), but it can be confusing with the plethora of options available. Mobile reception can be patchy here, so I was glad that I had downloaded the area before setting out so that I could use maps offline with the satellite ping still fairly accurate in providing my location.
I noted that if I did get lost, there were quite a few management trails (dirt road size) that are very easy to follow, but that being said, this is a part of the world that is a pleasure to simply get lost in... and wherever you end up there'll always be a perfect beach somewhere!
South of Swansea it was Caves Beach, Spoon Rock, Pinny Beach, The Shark Hole, Baldy Cliff, Middle Camp Gully, and Catherine Hill Bay, with its fascinating old jetty and perfect pub. I had to stop for a lunchtime refreshment at 'The Catho' (sadly only a softie as there was still a lot more wandering ahead). Beautiful Moonee Beach (tragically now overlooked by an unsympathetic development at the very northern end), perfect Ghosties, Bongon, Frazer and Deadmans (the slippery, steep, gravelly climb up to the headland might explain the gruesome name) Beaches, Wybung Headland, Tea Tree Lookout, and then, in a wonderful finale, the beach walk along Birdie and Budgewoi Beaches with their astounding dunes. Wow, just wow!
Once again, I reflected on the fact that while the human world might be falling apart, the cure is at hand for those of us lucky enough to be living in, or visiting, NSW. All you have to do is pack a sandwich, a hat, a bit of sunscreen, plenty of water and make a pilgrimage to this stretch of coastal magnificence. Restoration guaranteed! Like a great smile, our coast costs nothing and gives much.